The Quonset Hut

I will be posting some pictures of how to make an inexpensive die, provided one has a lathe or access to one. This die can be used to make inexpensive and uniform dielectrics from different plastics.

I need to get the photos transferred for posting.

Mikado

Here is a method to produce a die for the punching of dielectrics for the experimenter.



In this photo, you can see a black pipe coupler. The choice is dependent upon the size of the dielectric you wish. For example, if you wish a 1" diameter disk then you would choose a coupler that has less than 1" inside diameter. The photo above is showing the truing of one side of the coupler.



This photo is showing the completing of the facing.

The next set of photos will show the cutting of the taper and the boring to size.

Mikado

The trued end of the coupler is now set into the chuck on the lathe. The purpose of truing should be apparent for when the cut is made on the other end, both ends will be made concentric.



Take note that on the lathe chuck, the jaws are numbered and this number is identified on the coupler in the event it is removed so that it can be positioned properly on reinsertion in the chuck. Both ends of the coupler are now concentric.



The tool piece has been changed to a boring bar. In this photo, the bar can be seen how it will plunge into the coupler and the cross slide (the part of the lathe that the boring bar is attached to) will be moved outward. Throughout the boring process, the inside diameter will be checked until it is at the required diameter that you are looking for.



The above photo shows a cross compound set up. The tool piece has been changed back to a cutter. The cross compound will cut the desired taper after the degrees are set. The degree of the taper is determined by the material that the die will be used on.



The taper has been finished. Depending upon how sharp you wish the edge, a whetstone can be used with some light oil and held to the taper as the lathe is slowly turned (not recommended for the inexperienced for this can be hazardous due to the rotating jaws of the chuck but if you need the edge then be careful)


You now have made an inexpensive die for the uniform cutting of dielectrics or leather or any material.

Mikado

Mikado,

Thanks for the posts! I always like to see Instructions like these.

What kind of lathe is it?

It appears to be a 2-inch black iron coupling.
Could you also use a Schedule 40 iron pipe instead of the coupling?

htmagic wrote:Mikado,

Thanks for the posts! I always like to see Instructions like these.

What kind of lathe is it?

It appears to be a 2-inch black iron coupling.
Could you also use a Schedule 40 iron pipe instead of the coupling?

Hi Mr. Magic.

Yes, it is a 2" black iron coupling. As to using a pipe, the wall thickness is not there to give a good taper that is why I chose the coupler for it is uniform on both sides and has the "meat" for a nice taper. The addition of a plug in the striking end of the coupler would be a nice addition to transmit a more uniform blow by a hammer. I used a board.

The lathe is a Grizzly lathe and cost around $1,000 bucks. I bought it in Williamsport, Pa at their outlet.

Mikado

Mmmm, Grizzly.
That's a nice machine.

And for those that don't have a lathe or want to do something quicker can buy a punch set like this:

http://www.sciplus.com/recommend.cfm/recommendid/11599



This punch set doesn't appear to be as "beefy" as the pipe coupler but would work on thinner material.
The coupler punch would work on heavier gauge material.

I have a MicroMark lathe and I need to make some chips...